Pre-trip car inspection — a checklist before you set off

Before a long drive, check eight things in your car: tyre condition and pressure, brakes, fluid levels (oil, coolant, brake fluid, washer fluid), the air conditioning, the battery, lights and wipers, the suspension, and the emergency kit. Some of it you can do yourself in a few minutes on the driveway; the rest is worth leaving to a calm inspection a few days before departure — so there's time for any repair. Below you'll find a complete point-by-point checklist, with real thresholds for "drive on" and "better get it checked". You can sort it all in one place, in Wrocław at Grabiszyńska 241 — either on your own in our self-service zone, or with a mechanic's help.

1. Tyres — the most important point of contact with the road

On a holiday drive the car is heavier (luggage, passengers, often a roof box), and summer asphalt is hot — the toughest conditions for tyres all year. Start with them.

• Tread depth — the legal minimum is 1.6 mm, but on a wet road at motorway speed a genuinely safe margin is 3 mm or more. Below that, wet-braking distance rises sharply.
• Pressure — check on cold tyres and set it to the placard value (usually on the driver's door pillar or the fuel-filler flap). For a loaded car you normally pick the higher "fully laden" figure.
• Even wear — if the tread wears on one side (inner or outer), it's a sign of misaligned wheels, not the tyres themselves.
• Sidewall condition and tyre age — cracks, bulges and hard, cracked rubber are grounds for replacement even with good tread.
• Spare wheel / repair kit — check it's actually there, holds pressure, and that the wrench and jack are with it.

2. Brakes — check them before you need them

Mountain descents, towing a trailer, frequent braking in traffic jams on the road — holidays can heavily load the braking system. What to watch for:

• Pad thickness — a thin layer of friction material (below about 3 mm) means a replacement is due soon; better to do it before you leave than to hunt for a workshop 500 km from home.
• Symptoms while braking — squealing, grinding, steering-wheel vibration or a pulsing pedal signal worn pads or warped discs.
• Brake-fluid level and age — the fluid absorbs moisture; old fluid lowers the boiling point and on a long descent can give a "soft" pedal. Replacement is usually recommended about every 2 years.
• How the car reacts — if the car pulls to one side while braking, have the system checked at a workshop.

3. Fluids and oils — a quick check under the bonnet

You can check most levels yourself in five minutes on a cold engine and level ground. It's the cheapest insurance before a trip.

• Engine oil — level on the dipstick between MIN and MAX; if a change is due (mileage or time), do it before the trip, not after.
• Coolant — level in the expansion tank; in summer, in a traffic jam and with the AC running, it's what protects the engine from overheating.
• Brake fluid — level within range; a drop can mean worn pads or a leak.
• Washer fluid — a full reservoir and working nozzles; insects and dust on the road can dirty the windscreen in a minute.
• Power-steering fluid / transmission oils — no leaks under the car; a dark patch on the parking spot is a warning sign.

4. Air conditioning — comfort and safety in summer

In the heat, working air conditioning isn't a luxury but a matter of the driver's concentration over several hours behind the wheel. How to assess its condition:

• Cooling power — if the AC "barely pulls" despite maximum settings, the refrigerant has probably run low and it needs a recharge.
• Smell when switched on — an unpleasant, musty odour means mould and bacteria on the evaporator; anti-fungal treatment / disinfection helps.
• Service interval — refrigerant escapes naturally at about 10% a year, so a recharge every 1–2 years keeps full performance.
• Pre-season check — on the Bosch station we'll check the seal and performance, so you don't run short of cool air on the road.

5. Battery and electrics

Contrary to popular belief, batteries can fail in summer too — heat speeds their wear, while the AC and long stops add load. You don't want to be looking for a jump-start in the hotel car park.

• Battery age — over 4–5 years it's worth measuring its condition (a load test) before it lets you down.
• Signs of weakening — a lazy, "heavy" start, lights dimming at idle, the charging warning light.
• Terminal condition — clean, tightened and free of white deposits; a loose terminal can mimic a battery fault.
• Alternator — if the car stalls or the electrics "go haywire", have the charging checked at a workshop.

6. Lights, wipers and visibility

• All lights — dipped, main beam, side, brake, indicators, reverse and the rear fog light; ask someone to help check the rear, or park the car with its back to a wall.
• Headlight aim — with a loaded boot the rear sags and the lights can dazzle others; many cars have a headlight-levelling dial.
• Wiper blades — streaking and juddering across the glass are a sign to replace them; in summer a sudden downpour can cut visibility to nothing.
• Clean glass and mirrors — including from the inside; a fogged or dirty windscreen tires the eyes on a long drive.

7. Suspension, alignment and play

A few hours of motorway quickly expose tired suspension — the car "floats", tires the driver and handles worse when overtaking. Watch for:

• Knocking over bumps — a typical symptom of worn suspension parts (bushings, anti-roll-bar links, ball joints).
• Bouncing after hitting a kerb — if the car keeps "swaying" for a while, the dampers may be worn out.
• Pulling on a straight road and uneven tyre wear — usually alignment; a 3D HUNTER measurement sets the wheels and calms the handling.
• Play in the steering — noticeable dead travel in the steering is worth checking before a long drive.

8. Emergency kit and documents

Finally, the things that are easy to forget but save the situation in a breakdown or a check, including abroad.

• Warning triangle and fire extinguisher (check the extinguisher's expiry date).
• Hi-vis vest — in many countries mandatory for every passenger; keep it in the cabin, not the boot.
• First-aid kit, repair kit or spare wheel with wrench and jack, jump leads/booster.
• Documents — vehicle registration, valid third-party insurance (and a green card if you're going beyond the standard area), driving licence.
• Basic supplies — water, spare washer fluid, replacement bulbs if your car uses them.

What to do yourself and what to leave to a mechanic

Checking tyre pressure and tread, fluid levels, lights and wipers are jobs you can do yourself — including here, in the self-service zone by the hour. Brake diagnostics, a battery test, Bosch air-conditioning service, 3D HUNTER wheel alignment or a full mechanical inspection are better left to the workshop. If you're planning repairs right before departure, check in advance how to choose and when to change tyres, so you set off on reliable rubber.

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We'll check the tyres, brakes, fluids, air conditioning and electrics — you'll head off on holiday with peace of mind.

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Andrii MelnykManager

A holiday breakdown almost always announces itself in advance — with a thin pad, a weak battery, an unevenly worn tyre.
A calm inspection a few days before you leave costs less than a single tow off the road.

We'll check every point on this checklist and tell you straight whether the car is ready for a long drive. And the simple check you can do yourself here, in the Zone.

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